Pure linen is the classic summer fabric: breathable, dry to the touch and instantly recognisable. But it also creases quickly and can feel stiff at first. Lyocell linen blends were developed to keep the linen look while making the fabric softer and more fluid. If you are developing a summer dress collection, the choice between the two affects drape, wrinkle behaviour, lining needs and the final price position of the garment.
This guide compares the two from a sourcing point of view, using fabrics from our own range as examples.
The short answer
- Choose pure linen if you want a crisp, textured, natural look and your customers accept, or even like, visible creases.
- Choose lyocell linen if you want a dress that flows, feels smooth against the skin and looks neater after wearing.
Side-by-side comparison
| Pure linen | Lyocell linen (90/10) | |
|---|---|---|
| Hand feel | Dry, crisp, slightly coarse when new; softens with washing | Soft and smooth, cool against the skin, with a slight dry linen touch |
| Drape | Holds its shape; stands away from the body | Fluid and soft; follows the body |
| Wrinkles | Creases easily | Much less than pure linen |
| Surface | Visible slubs and natural texture | Smooth, with only a few fine slubs |
| Lustre | Matte | Soft, silk-like sheen |
| Best dress styles | Shift dresses, structured shirt dresses, relaxed resort styles | Long shirt dresses, flowing silhouettes, resort co-ord sets |
Drape and silhouette
Drape is usually the deciding factor for dresses. Pure linen has body: it holds pleats and stands away from the body, which works well for A-line shapes and structured shirt dresses. Lyocell linen moves with the wearer. Our 90% lyocell / 10% linen quality is the softest in our lyocell-linen range. Compared with our 75/25 lyocell-linen fabrics, it drapes more fluidly and has a more visible soft lustre. If you are deciding between blend ratios, see 90/10 or 75/25 lyocell linen.
Wrinkles and customer expectations
Creasing is the most common customer complaint about linen garments. Lyocell linen creases much less than pure linen: after washing, it can be smoothed by hand and line-dried, and it will dry mostly flat. If your customers expect a neat look straight from the suitcase, lyocell linen is the safer choice. If your brand embraces a lived-in look, pure linen's creases are part of the appeal.
Sheerness and lining
Light summer weights in both fibres can be slightly sheer in white and pale shades. For our 133 GSM lyocell linen, we recommend a lining for dresses in white and light colours. Always check opacity on a physical swatch in your chosen colour before confirming the pattern. See how to check opacity before cutting.
Shrinkage and care
Both fabrics should be tested for shrinkage before cutting. For reference, our 133 GSM lyocell linen measures warp -3% and weft -2% in an ISO 6330 wash test (final values per test report). Care is simple: gentle wash below 30°C, iron at low to medium heat, and do not bleach.
Sourcing options from our Shaoxing mill
- Lyocell linen 90/10, 133 GSM, 140 cm: 16 stock colours, with Ecru, Oatmeal, Mist Blue and Olive available year-round. Lyocell Linen 133 GSM
- Pure linen, 148 GSM: our core pure linen for shirts and dresses. Pure Linen 148 GSM
- Pure linen, 119 GSM: a lighter option for summer shirts, blouses and resort wear. Lightweight Pure Linen 119 GSM
| Stock colours | Custom dyeing | |
|---|---|---|
| MOQ | From 50 m per colour | 800 m per colour |
| Lead time | Ships in 3–5 days after payment | 15–20 days (Lyocell Linen 133 GSM: 18–22 days) |
Peak season (March–May): please allow an extra 5–7 days.
Compare them in your hand
Photos cannot show drape or hand feel. We send A4 swatches free of charge (up to 5 colours per quality; courier cost paid by the buyer), and sample yardage from 1 m at USD 8 per metre, deducted from your bulk order. In-stock samples are usually dispatched the same day.